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Adapter – Used to allow a specific style of atomizer or cartomizer to fit onto a different style of battery.
Advanced Personal Vaporizer (APV): The Advanced Personal Vaporizer usually consists of a bigger battery and technical features that allow you to control variable voltage and/or variable wattage.
Analog or Analogue – Slang term for a traditional cigarette.
Amperage (Current) -
When we speak of Amps in dealing with cigarettes we are simultaneously referring to the flow of electricity itself as well as how much of said flow each device can safely handle. Since if there is no current there is no vaping the flow of electrons is really not what we're after here though so we're focusing on the ability of a device to handle heavier loads of current.
When you vape you are balancing an equation known as Ohm's Law. Ohms law is I = V/R or Current (amperage) = Voltage/Resistance.
So when you go to vape, let's take a standard non VV ego as a popular example: X = 3.6v/2.0ohm.
Solving this equation for X (the Current/Amps) = 1.8 amps are being drawn. Now, this discussion on amperage most likely won't apply to you if you are using a regular PV, but when you get into dual coils the amperage can very much affect the ability of the device.
If you have a 2.5 amp device that means that the APV can't push a voltage/resistance combo higher in any equation above 2.5 amps (it lacks the arm strength). We know that the device is capable of 6v so let's push it to the max.
6v/3.0ohms=2amps (12 watts). So it can handle any normal application. Let's push it harder. We want more wattage (because we're crazy like that). If we did a combo of 6v / 2.0ohm = 3 amps you'd see the device can't handle that. So why does that matter? The wattage on that, 18 watts, is far too high to be comfortable, and far too hot to be good for your atomizer coil. Well, what if you had 2 coils? The resistance is not doubled when you use dual coil atomizers, the wattage is. So if you were to put a 2.0-ohm dual coil cartomizer on the device (with 3 amps max on that device) it would take that 18 watts and split it into 2 which is 9 watts a piece, that's a decent vape - perhaps a little hot, but it works. Now, do you understand where amperage plays a role when it comes to "extreme vaping"?
Amperage won't really affect anyone in the normal realm of vaping (since all of the common APVs I have seen have enough amperage to handle the reasonable full range of voltage and resistance on a single coil), but if you are a power user, who likes extremes, it comes into play. Also, if you like dual or triple coil atomizers (and they come in cartomizer and clearomizers now - I do think that these could play a bigger role in the future of vaping) then Amperage plays a pretty big role in getting things just right. Having and not needing is better than needing and not having. Many people have complained about the effectiveness of dual coil cartomizers in the past and they have said that single coils do the same thing, but they lacked the amperage to fully mess around with it until now. To me, this is all theory, but it is something I will be putting to the test ASAP. Of course, I will post the results.
As it is right now, if an APV can't handle the current it will typically either lower the voltage to a safe level without telling you as a safety precaution or it will give you an error code and prevent the operations. There is a wave of newer APVs on the market that are pushing up to 5 amps. Just to throw a crazy number out there. With 5 amps you could push a 1.2-ohm triple coil atomizer at 6 volts and get 10 watts per coil, a mighty vape indeed.
In conclusion, it doesn't take 6v to vape well. If the idea to hit the target of vapor production, throat hit, and flavor (i.e. the sweet spot of voltage, resistance, and wattage) then one could just as easily hit the target with a well-used short bow as they could an English longbow or even a well-tuned crossbow. Bigger isn't always better, you just need to get the right combination to hit the bulls-eye of your sweet spot target.
I originally started with vaping with a 4.2v KGO (eGo clone). Once I got my first Twist I found I actually got better vapor at 3.8v so I went DOWN, not up to achieve my sweet spot with my atomizers. Raising the voltage, and thus, the wattage, within the proper sweet spot ratio will produce similar amounts of vapor at any scale within the sweet spot range. The only difference will be the accompanying heat (sometimes referred to as throat hit) as you scale up. This essentially proves what I said in the very beginning of this blog that more voltage isn't necessarily the answer, that getting the right ratio is the answer and that can be done on a Twist, or it can be done on a Provari. More isn't always better. How you get there, and how much you spend to do it, is up to you.
Atomizer (Abbreviated as Atty) - An atomizer is the heating element in an electronic cigarette. It’s used to change liquids into vapor. It has tiny filaments similar to the filament in a light bulb. When activated the filament heats up and any liquid in the chamber is changed into vapor. This vapor can then be inhaled and exhaled like the smoke in a traditional cigarette.
Atty – Abbreviation for Atomizer.
Automatic – A style of electronic cigarette battery that does not have a button to activate the heating element. Rather, when the user draws on the device a switch is activated and the atomizer is activated. This style of e-cig is most like smoking a traditional cigarette.
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Batt – Abbreviation for Battery.
Battery (Abbreviated as Batt) – The battery piece of an electronic cigarette is the part that provides power to the heating element. This allows the heating element to heat the E-Liquid and produce vapor.
Blanks: Cartridges with dry filler material to be filled with e-liquid by the user.
Bridge – A small U-shaped covering inside of a traditional atomizer. This is used to absorb liquid and help wick it towards the heating element.
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Cartridge (Abbreviated as Cart) – A plastic tube-like piece that is usually stuffed with some sort of absorbent filler material that holds the juice.
Carto – Abbreviation for Cartomizer.
Cartomizer (Abbreviated as Carto) – A cartridge and atomizer in a single unit. These generally are disposable or rebuildable, inexpensive and hold more juice than a regular cartridge/atomizer combination.
Charger – A battery charger. This is used to recharge your e-cig battery once it has been depleted.
Clearomizer: A clearomizer is the transparent version of a cartomizer, designed to allow users to see how vaping actually works and how much e-liquid they have left. In reality, things are a little more complicated. Many in the electronic cigarette business choose to define clearomizers simply as transparent cartomizers, even though they’re not always built the same way. The clearomizer is usually made of thin, very easily breakable plastic, in order to remain transparent. Also, most clearomizers don’t have PolyFill filling, as it would make it hard for vapers to estimate how much e-juice they have left. Instead, they have a wick.
Disposable vs. Rebuildable Clearomizers: Clearomizers are available in disposable styles and rebuildable styles. Disposable styles, such as the CE4, are thrown away when they no longer perform well (usually 1-3 weeks, depending on usage). Some people prefer disposable styles because they don't want to change the parts out. They may find them more convenient.
Rebuildable styles, such as the DCT, T3S, MT3 & EVOD allow the user to take them apart and replace the heating coil when it no longer performs well. Replacing a heating coil is more cost effective than replacing the whole unit.
Coil: A coil is a kanthal or nichrome wire that heats up the e-liquid to produce the vapor.
Cut-Off: Cut-off or automatic shutdown is a feature which happens if you try to take too long drags from an e-cigarette. This usually happens after a 5-8 second drag. This will prevent the atomizer from overheating. Flashing LED usually indicates about this feature. Not all models have this feature.
Cut / Cutting: The process of diluting e-liquid to achieve the desired nicotine level.
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Deep Lung: A slang term used to describe a specific style of vaping. With "deep lung" the vaper takes one long, deep, draw and inhales directly into the lungs without holding the vapor in the mouth.
Dewick: The act of removing the wick from an atomizer.
Debridge: The act of removing the bridge from an atomizer.
Disposable E-Cigarette: The disposable e-cigarette usually comes with no charger or way to charge it. It is designed to be used once and to last long enough for you to vape through 1 pre-filled cartomizer. Typically, a disposable e-cigarette is a 1 piece design. It is said to last up to 24 hours.
Direct Dripping: The act of dripping e-liquid directly on the atomizer coil.
Dipping: The act of dipping an atomizer into e-liquid.
DNA: The DNA is a small variable wattage board built for modders. The board can produce up to 12 watts and can be running in parallel to produce 24 watts.
Do It Yourself (DIY): To do it yourself; manually mixing e-liquid with its components. Anything that involves doing it yourself.
Draw: The process of inhaling air through the electronic cigarette; with tobacco cigarettes, this is the "drag."
Drip Tip – An accessory that can be used in conjunction with an atomizer or cartomizer. These have a larger opening than the original equipment and allows a user to drip Juice directly onto the atomizer. Some people use a drip tip on their Cartomizers simply for looks and/or comfort.
Dripping – A method of adding juice to the atomizer. A user will drip a few drop directly onto the bridge before vaping. Many users feel this method produces the best vapor production and taste since there is no filler material involved with the process.
Drip Well: The drip well is typically a bowl shape on a mod where the atomizer female connector sits. The drip well is designed to catch any excess e-liquid that may have leaked from the atomizer.
Drip On-Demand (DOD): The drip on demand is an accessory that is used to feed e-liquid into your atomizer by pressing the bottle. Your bottle of e-liquid is placed at the top of the feeder and a spout or tube is branched off for you to insert your drip tip. It’s dripping made easier.
Drip Shield: The drip shield is a round metal or plastic tube that slips over your atomizer. If leaking occurs on your atomizer, the liquid will leak into the drip shield instead of leaking onto your PV. As your atomizer runs out of liquid stored, the liquid in the drip shield will be sucked back into the atomizer to then be vaporized.
Dry Burn: Drawing on the atomizer when there is no cartridge and it is completely dry. This can damage your atomizer so it should be avoided.
Dry Vaping: Commonly known as “dripping”, this is the act of vaping without a cartridge; generally practiced when the atomizer is saturated with e-liquid.
Dual-Coil Cartomizers (DCT) – A newer type of cartomizer that employs two coils. These babies vape strong, come in several sizes and may hold anywhere from 1.5ml to 3.5ml of juice. Generally recommended for 6v vaping.
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E-Cig – Abbreviation for Electronic Cigarette.
eGo Style: A style of electronic cigarette that utilizes the 510 threads and allows one to use 510 components but with a much larger battery. Many people feel this is one of the superior models of e-cigs that are available.
E-Juice – Also referred to as E-Liquid, Juice, or Smoke Juice. This is the liquid that is vaporized when using an electronic cigarette.
E-Liquid – Also referred to as E-Juice, Juice, or Smoke Juice. This is the liquid that is vaporized when using an electronic cigarette.
Electronic Cigarette (Abbreviated as E-Cig) – A device that heats up a liquid solution consisting of nicotine, propylene glycol and/or vegetable glycol, and flavorings to a point where it actually turns into a vapor which can be inhaled.
E-Pipe: An atomizer designed to mimic a pipe; you can also find others that mimic a cigar.
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Filler Material (Abbreviated as Filler) - Material placed inside of a Cartridge that is absorbent. It is used to help keep the juice inside of the cartridge and deliver it to the atomizer at an optimal pace (so as to not flood the device). Most cartridges use PolyFill as the Filler Material, but there are many modifications available that may help enhance your e-cig experience.
Flavorings: The substance added to e-liquid to give a specific taste.
Flooding – Something that can occur when too much Juice is applied to the atomizer or when you fill your cartomizer too fast. Since atomizers require some air to properly vaporize liquid, adding too much juice to an atomizer will cause a decrease in vapor production and flavor.
Fluval: A common filler material used in aquariums; some vapers use it to replace the standard filler found in factory cartridges.
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Glycerin: A sweet-tasting liquid commonly used in food production; it is often used as a base liquid for cartridges.
Glycerin BP: A type of base liquid used for e-cigarette cartridges; flavoring and nicotine can be added.
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High Resistance (HR): An atomizer or cartomizer with a higher Ohm rating than the standard equipment. This allows you to apply higher voltage to the coil but may produce a harder draw.
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IMR: Lithium Ion Manganese Rechargeable Battery
ICR: Lithium Ion Cobalt Rechargeable Battery
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Juice – Also referred to as E-Liquid, E-Juice, or Smoke Juice. This is the liquid that is vaporized when using an electronic cigarette.
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Knuckle Head: The knuckle head is an adjustable, rotating drip tip. The drip tip can adjust to any angle desired.
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Leaking – This can happen when too much juice is added to an atomizer or cartomizer. Juice can leak out of the bottom of the heating element and onto the battery, which in some cases can cause damage to the device.
Light Emitting Diode (abbreviated as LED) – A diode that converts applied voltage to light. These are commonly used in electronic cigarette devices to indicate that the device is actively being used.
Liquid – Also referred to as E-Liquid, E-Juice, Smoke Juice, or Juice. This is the liquid that is vaporized when using an electronic cigarette.
Low Resistance (abbreviated as LR) – An atomizer or cartomizer with a lower Ohm rating than the standard equipment. This generally causes the heating element to get hotter faster and produces vapor more quickly. In many cases it produces more vapor than an atomizer or cartomizer that has a standard resistance rating. Low resistance typically produced an easier draw.
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Manual – A style of electronic cigarette battery that has a button (usually on the top or side of the battery) that activates the heating element. When the user wishes to use the device, the button must first be depressed in order to produce vapor from the atomizer. This style of e-cig is less like a traditional cigarette than the Automatic but is preferred by many due to the fact that it is sealed and cannot be adversely affected by leaking.
Memory Effect: A process by which NiCad batteries begin performing in properly due to misreported energy levels; the memory effect causes the device to believe that batteries are dead when they are really not. You can reduce the likelihood of the memory effect by regularly discharging fully, and then overcharging, batteries.
Menthol: A substance derived from peppermint which is used in a variety of applications including cigarettes, food of flavoring, and even in medicines. It can be used to flavor e-liquid.
Mesh: The cover of the atomizer bridge; typically made of a metal mesh material.
ML: An acronym for milliliter; used as a measurement of e-liquid.
MG: Abbreviation for Milligram.
Milligram (Abbreviated as mg) – The amount of nicotine found in a juice. Typical levels include 0mg, 3mg, 6mg, 8mg, 12mg, 16mg, 18mg, 24mg, 30mg, 36mg and 48mg. Those who use juice with a higher nicotine content than that are generally people who were heavy smokers or have been vaping for quite some time.
Milliliter (Abbreviated as mL) – The amount of juice in a given container.
Mini – One of many styles of electronic cigarettes available. These generally are about the same size as a traditional cigarette and have the shortest battery life of any style.
Mod – Dual usage – Can be used to describe modifications to a device or accessory (such as getting more vapor production out of your cartridges) or a design variation of a commonly manufactured electronic cigarette. In the latter context, mods typically use larger rechargeable lithium ion batteries and allow the user longer battery life and increased vapor production but at the cost of the device that looks like a traditional cigarette. Many mods will also allow the user to increase or decrease the voltage of their device to achieve optimal performance.
Modder: A modder is a person that modifies electronic cigarette devices to their preference. Most modders usually mod devices to be more powerful than your typical e-cig.
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Nicotine: An alkaloid found in tobacco and other plants of the nightshade family.
Nicotine Level: The nicotine level is the amount of nicotine present in a cartridge or bottle of e-liquid. It is usually measured in mg/ml.
NiMH: Ni-MH stands for Nickel-Metal Hydride. Nickel-Metal Hydride batteries have no Cadmium added. Cadmium is hazardous to the environment. When using Nickel-Metal Hydride batteries, charging should be monitored to avoid overcharging. Nickel-Metal Hydride has no Memory Effect and can be charged or topped-off at any time without affecting battery life.
Niquid: A generic slang term for e-liquid with nicotine added. Sometimes this liquid has no flavoring, other times it does.
NRT: An acronym for Nicotine Replacement Therapy.
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Ohm - A measure of electrical resistance. A lower number indicates lower resistance and therefore faster heating.
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Pass Through – A device that plugs directly into the USB port of a computer or charger and allows the user to vape without having to worry about battery life.
PCC - Abbreviation for Personal Charging Case.
Pen Style – One of many styles of electronic cigarettes available. Slightly resembles a ball point pen in appearance.
Personal Charging Case (PCC) – A portable charger that can be taken with a user on the go to charge electronic cigarette batteries when away from a power outlet. Particularly useful when using an e-cig that has less than a 2 hour battery life per charge.
Personal Vaporizer (abbreviated as PV) – Another name for an Electronic Cigarette.
PG – Abbreviation for Propylene Glycol.
Propylene Glycol (abbreviated as PG) – An ingredient found in many brands of E-Juice. Some users have reported an allergic reaction to it and must, therefore, use 100% VG Juice instead. This is one of the ingredients used that when heated will produce vapor that can be inhaled. Typically, PG produces less vapor than it’s VG counterpart but provides more flavor and throat hit. This substance has been used as a primary ingredient in medical inhalers for years.
Primer Puff: The practice of taking a quick, short draw just to engage the atomizer.
Protected Batteries: Batteries with a small circuit board attached which prevents overcharging, undercharging, and overheating.
Puffer: A slang term used to denote a specific type of e-smoker; the "Puffer" draws vapor into his mouth, removes the atomizer, then inhales into the lungs with a mixture of fresh air. It is the most common form of vaping.
Pull: The draw you take from your electronic cigarette.
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Resistance (aka Conductivity): This basically comes down to the conductivity of your atomizers coil. Conductivity is how easily current passes through the wire from point A to point B. An easier way to look at it is to see this as friction. Everything you do in this world is related to friction. When you walk on the ground it is friction that allows you to gain purchase to push yourself forward. When you fire an arrow through the air, the air creates friction and slows your arrow down. If you shoot an arrow into water, it will slow it down much more. This example of air vs. water is a perfect example between low and high resistance. Resistance in electricity works in a similar way. The more resistance there is the less power that will be allowed through the circuit in the form of wattage (as far as we are concerned here) which is what we are looking for. Typically speaking, high resistance then is better for high voltage applications, and vice versa. Putting a low resistance on a high voltage device will create a lot of heat and is in the realm of reckless throat hit chasing.
When it comes to vaping, this is a factor over which you will have the least control since it is set by your atomizer and there's no such thing as variable resistance at this time. These resistances are often set to common numbers and or fractions of an Ohm. So since this factor is concrete to each atomizer and we are forced to change to different resistance atomizers in order to change this variable. It is this number that we are basically forced to base our other variables around. If you have a 3.0ohm atomizer then you'll want to change your voltage to 3.7-5.0v (Though in reality most will be closer to 4.5v). This will give you a wattage range between 4.5w-8.3w. Right on target!
Rebuildable Atomizer: Rebuildable atomizers vary in design. Some have fabric wicks, while some stay more pure from burning elements and use SS mesh and kanthal. Rebuildable atomizers are meant to save on cost and be readily fixable. The cons can sometimes be performance or ease of use. Some rebuildable atomizer designs incorporate a tank for holding e-liquid.
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Smoke Juice – Also referred to as E-Liquid, Liquid, Juice, or E-Juice. This is the liquid that is vaporized when using an electronic cigarette.
Smokeless Cigarette – A term used to refer to an electronic cigarette. This term is used commonly due to the fact that no actual smoke is inhaled or exhaled while using.
Starter Kit – A kit that includes basic e-cigarette equipment. Typically includes everything needed to begin vaping. Most starter kits come with one clearomizer, one battery, a charger and a bottle of juice.
Standard Resistance: A standard resistance cartomizer is typically 3.0 ohm. A standard resistance atomizer is 2.5 ohm.
Stick Style: The stick style electronic cigarette refers to all electronic cigarettes that are of or close to the size of a tobacco cigarette.
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Tailpipe: The practice of vaping by sucking directly on the atomizer tube, without a cartridge or mouthpiece.
Tank: A special type of cartridge that holds considerably more liquid than cartridges with filler. Usually used with a cartomizer and sometimes an atomizer. You just fill them up with liquid and vape.
TH - Abbreviation for Throat Hit.
Three Piece E-Cigarette: A traditional, “old school” style three-piece e-cig combining a battery, atomizer, and cartridge.
Throat Hit (Abbreviated as TH) - The tingling feeling one feels in the back of the throat when vaporizing juice that contains nicotine. Typically, since nicotine is a large contributing factor in throat hit when a juice that contains zero nicotine is vaporized, there is no throat hit.
Throat Hit (TH): Throat hit is the sensation that is felt in the back of the throat when the inhalation is taken from the mouth down the throat. There are several factors in throat hit and throat hit, like taste, is totally subjective. Some of the factors to throat hit are nicotine level, purity or quality of the E-Liquid, personal smoking habits or techniques, and the proper usage and care of your hardware. The factor that varies throat hit the most is in the nicotine level. E-Liquids containing more nicotine usually give a greater throat hit.
Toot: Also known as Pull or to draw from your electronic cigarette.
Tobacco Harm Reduction (THR): Policy or practice of providing less harmful nicotine-containing products.
Topping Off: Adding few drops of e-liquid into a cartridge, cartomizer or tank is called topping off.
Two Piece E-Cigarette: A specific style of electronic cigarette combining a battery and a cartomizer.
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Vape – The action of “smoking” an electronic cigarette. Since e-cigs actually produce vapor (rather than smoke) people refer to this as “Vaping”.
Vapor Production – Typically associated with Juices. Indicates how much vapor is produced using an average inhale of an e-cigarette.
Vegetable Glycerol or Vegetable Glycerin (abbreviated as VG) – An ingredient found in many brands of E-Juice. This is one of the ingredients used that when heated will produce vapor that can be inhaled. Typically, VG produces more vapor than its PG counterpart but provides less flavor and Throat Hit. Some users who are allergic to Propylene Glycol must use 100% VG Juices.
VG - Abbreviation for Vegetable Glycerol or Vegetable Glycerin.
Voltage (aka Potential) - Put simply, this is the potential energy. A device's voltage is its ability to create potential energy for use. The harder it is pulled back, the more kinetic energy will be released when you let go of the string. See non-variable voltage devices like a crossbow, since you can't vary the amount of potential energy (i.e. the crossbow always locks in at the same potential energy every time). This is one more variable you can't control if you have a non-variable voltage device and it will extremely limit your control over your vape. If you think of it like this the idea is to shoot the arrow; the bowstring is just a means to an end. The reason why voltage ended up being the main word to define the strength of a device is because variable wattage implies an advanced capability that most PVs do not have in the slightest (since APVs with variable wattage need complex circuits to calculate the Ohm's law to set the voltage to the wattage you desire).
So we look at voltage as the vehicle to deliver our vape, but it's really wattage we are after (it's not how you get there, it's where you get). Every time you dial up the voltage on something, the harder you are pulling back the bowstring and the harder the arrow will hit in the end. The arrow is where the business end of your vapor happens. We will call that wattage.
Variable Voltage (VV): Variable Voltage lets you control how many volts your device will produce. Usually, with a variable voltage e-cig, you’ll be able to dial in the voltage by a click of a button or sequence.
Variable Wattage (VW): Variable Wattage lets you control how many watts your device will produce. This will allow you to set it and forget it, no matter what atomizer or cartomizer you use with the device.
Vape Safe (2 Cents/Fuse): The Vape Safe Fuse is a tiny disc shaped fuse for use with e-cigarette mods/PVs. The fuse is an added layer of safety in addition to a good quality battery. While using The Fuse, if your battery were to send too many amps, The Fuse would simply do its job and prevent the electrical circuit from completing, and thus preventing your faulty battery or connection to cause further damage to the battery, mod and/or yourself.
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Wadding: Another term to describe the filler material inside a cartridge which holds the juice.
Wattage (aka Power): Kinetic energy, this is how fast the arrow flies and how hard it hits. This translates to power, and thus heat when it comes to vaping. The average vaper prefers a wattage range of 4 - 8 watts, though 10-12+ is reckless throat hit range (and can be damaging to your atomizer and reduce its life). Less than 4 watts really just doesn't work. It's kind of like if you don't pull the bowstring back enough and the arrow just flops to the ground right in front of you.
Wick – A narrow piece of poly string that is inside of many styles of atomizers that allow easier delivery of Juice to the heating element.